Time Stands Still... Island of Cozumel, Mexico

Tourism began on the Island of Cozumel more than 1500 years ago when the Mayans began making pilgrimages to pay tribute to the Mayan goddess of love and fertility, Ixchel, found at a sacred Maya site called San Gervasio. Small ruins scattered around the island and open to the public document these journeys. The famous diver Jacques Cousteau put Cozumel on the map with his explorations in the 60’s, and the 70’s saw the beginning of organized building for the potential tourist trade. Since then Cozumel has focused on its natural resources to sustain an active tourist market. Conservation measures help maintain the coral reefs and pristine waters making it one of the most favorite diving and snorkeling sites in the world.   

Besides being well known for its diving and fishing, the island has Chankanaab National Park, Faro Celarain Eco Park, El Cedral and Discover Mexico, a cultural theme park about Mexico.

On approaching Cozumel the outline of large multinational cruise ships dot the main port area of San Miguel. Disembarking from the 35 minute Ferry ride from Playa del Carmen (mainland) onto a large and modern pier, one sees the malecon (boulevard) running north to south as far as the eye can see. This stretch is filled with colorful restaurants, bars and many high end shops.

Whether it be authentic Cuban cigars, local clothing, intricate Talavera pottery, Carlos & Charlie’s restaurant or even a Starbucks, the main drag has it all. In the center is the U-shaped lay out of the main plaza, housing the municipal and tourism building, surrounded by small kiosks and eateries, with streets running outward in a grid pattern, where many mom and pop shops have been for more than 50 years.    

Our first day began by checking into the Casa del Mar Hotel, a well known casual dive resort for the past 16 years, overlooking the malecon and Mexican Caribbean. A small bridge leads from the beautifully maintained grounds to the dock/diving station, where 8am dives take off from.

Palm trees surround the large swimming pool/sun deck, affording one a spectacular view of the ocean while only a few footsteps from the open palapa restaurant, where a cold cerveza and tasty Mexican cuisine is readily had.  The rooms are done in rough stucco with marbled floors, all face the ocean, have small colorful balconies, large comfortable beds and plenty of hot water. The restaurant opens at 7am, frequented by many half opened eyed divers. Wi-Fi and computers are found in the lobby.

After check-in, our host Ana Bravo of the Cozumel tourism board, whisked us off to Chankanaab National Park and Ecological Reserve, home to the only inland coral formation in the world. Here one finds a plethora of diversions, whether swimming with dolphins or manatees, chillin’ on the palapa studded beach, snorkeling with more than 60 species on multicolored tropical fish or snuba/sea trekking the nearby reef. Families come and hangout for the entire day, great way to tire out the kids.

Ten minutes on the road and we’re pulling into the small Mayan town of “El Cedral”, founded in 1848 by eleven families who fled the mainland during the Caste War.  Jungle trekking this area via ATV’s draws many tourists and affords one an excellent view of the jungle terrain. After a brief stop we were on the road heading to Faro Celarain, an ecological reserve, covering an area of one thousand hectares, dedicated to maintaining its coastal dunes, mangroves, reefs, Lagoon systems and pristine beaches. Sea turtles, crocodiles, birds and marine life are accessible via kayaking the mangrove swamps or from their observation tower. Celarain’s nearby beach has rows of hammocks and a small taco/beer stand, the perfect spot for passing the day, or for something more educational a visit to the Lighthouse and navigation museum might be in order.

Deep sea fishing, trolling and bottom fishing for swordfish, blue/white marlin, blue fin tuna and sailfish are bests during the months of April through June, while wahoo, dorado, bonito, barracuda, amberjack and grouper are found year round.

Whether fishing, snorkeling or diving the coral reefs or wrecks, Cozumel deserves a good three days to experience the islands wonders including its archeological and Mayan history. Spend the day circumventing the island on a motorcycle, having lunch and a beer on its more remote side at a Rastafarian restaurant or just chill on one of its many beautiful beaches.