The British Virgin Islands… Life Slows Down

The British Virgin Islands… Life Slows Down
By Bill Milligan

The British Virgin Islands trade in the glitz and high-rise hotels of its Caribbean neighbors for a more secluded and nature inspired tourist retreat. The pure and unspoiled land is its main attraction – verdant hillsides covered in ancient mahogany trees and cacti, pristine beaches bathed by turquoise waters, refreshing trade winds, extensive coral reefs, as well as vast wildlife sanctuaries sheltering endangered species.

More than 60 islands form a distinct pattern around the Sir Frances Drake Channel – including the main island of Tortola, creating the backbone of the Channel and Virgin Gorda stretching to form the eastern border. With Jost Van Dyke lingering in the west and Anegada to the north and a series of smaller islands dotting the south – the BVI opens its diverse secrets in every cove and bay.

Steeped in a history of pirate lore, including the infamous Blackbeard, the childhood fantasies of Robinson Crusoe come to life as one begins island hopping the BVI. The sense of wayfaring adventure surfaces as your dingy approaches the secluded beaches, many looking untouched for centuries.  With islands visible from nearly every vantage point, some appearing close enough to swim to, the BVI provides a mystical time warp.

With a backdrop of rich green mountains extending 1,500 feet skyward, flowing downward to white sandy beaches, merging with crystal clear blue-green waters, one can only say “wow” to the unspoiled natural beauty.

The brightly colored town of Tortolla with its small, sun drenched clapboard shuttered houses, orange blossomed scented narrow winding streets and occasional wild noisy rooster roaming the parks, propels one back centuries to the swashbuckling days of the past.

Being the largest of the islands and the hub of the chain, Tortolla (80 percent of population) offers everything from Palm treed tranquility to every water related activity imaginable, including island hopping on chartered motor yachts or sailing sloops. With hundreds of bays, the curvy island offers sailing adventures in the South from Nanny Cay and Road Town Harbor to congregating yachtsmen at the chic Soper’s Hole.

Nightlife and partying are also part of the islands, something for every pocketbook and life style, including the infamous full moon beach side extravaganzas at the Bomba Shack. Wind beaten souvenirs of previous bashes will be found hanging from the rafters.

Accommodations range from beach side cottages to posh hotels serving local and international cuisine. Cappuccino and croissants open the day, West Indian roti’s for lunch and just off the boat seafood or imported steaks along with one of several Caribbean beers or an excellent selection of international wines rounds out the evening.

The island of Anegada an eleven minute flight from Tortolla via VI Air Links, beckons visitors with its 37 kilometers of unspoiled and secluded beaches, succulent lobster feasts, laid back cottages, a small hotel and challenging sailing. Countless ships lost on its coral reefs provide a paradise for scuba divers and snorkelers.

Our day trip began with a visit to the iguana preservation conservatory, established to protect the declining iguana population from feral cats and other predators. Run by the Fort Forth Zoo (Texas), their dedication to protecting iguana eggs and babies has saved the population.

Scurrying around the island we happened on a group of four middle-aged dreadlocked and gray bearded men, grilling goat heads and brains in preparation for an evening of partying.  With our gastric juices flowing we headed for the Anegada Reef Hotel and outdoor restaurant for a delightful lunch of lobster salad, Carib beer and a chat with owner Lorraine Wheatley, well known for her grilled lobsters and special sauce, attracting tourists and sailors from nearby islands, including the US Virgin Islands.  After lunch and a dip in the ocean at Big Bamboo cabins and restaurant we headed back to Tortolla.

Day two… a 45 minute ferry ride and we’re pulling into Peter Island, home of Peter Island Resort, on Conde Nast Traveler’s “Gold List,” accessible only by boat or helicopter.  The island is predominately undeveloped with only one resort and hiking and biking trails on which to discover the tropical flora and fauna indigenous to the island.

What Peter Island offers is more of a retreat rather than resort, where tranquility, pampering, isolation and mental disengagement are the activities of the day. Popular Deadman’s Beach, just near enough to the bar and restaurant is a perfect place to suspend yourself in a hammock and let the world slip by. Whether massage, weeklong yoga and meditation or hanging on the beach with a book is your thing, 7-10 days here and your ready to re-enter the rat race, although the lingering memories will haunt you, till your return.

The resort has 52 rooms and high-end villas set on 1,800 acres. Some date back to the seventies, others are new Beach Front junior suites, with luxurious double baths and hanging hammocks. Non-motorized water sports, from kayaking to sailing are included in the price, as is tennis and the fitness center. The islands five-mile loop with its hills, wild goats, falcons, lizards and iguanas will keep the naturist and health oriented in an excellent frame of mind and body.

Late night gastronomical guilt can be minimized following the above loop, before indulging in their three-course dinner or buffet. Only the finest produce, certified Angus beef, hand-caught lobster and fine wines are used in preparation.

A highlight of the resort is their 10,000 square foot interior spa, set amongst vast acres of lush, undisturbed flora and fauna overlooking the ocean. Luxury oceanfront retreat suites where one can enjoy specialized spa treatments, ayurvedic and Thai  massages, along with ocean-side Jacuzzi’s and a fitness center are just a sampling of the amenities offered.

Peter Island is at the center of diving and snorkeling, offering 30 dive sites within a 20-minute boat ride.  The infamous “Willie T’s” floating bar/restaurant is nearby, offering you a “drink” at the underwater bar at the old Baltic Schooner or jumping off the roof of the boat with or sans ropa.

Whether one is searching for seclusion or activity, Peter Island will delight the discerning guest.

At 10:00 am we’re boarding a 46-foot motor yacht (Power Boat Rentals BVI) preparing for a day of island hopping.  First stop is Jost Van Dyke, a small island located to the north west of Tortola. With only a few hundred inhabitants, spectacular beaches and a number of beach hugging bars and restaurants, here one lets their hair down and toasts to island beauty, gorgeous bays, friends, family and whatever else comes to mind, after imbibing in the local “pain killer” (Rum concoction) or two. A brief stop at the “Soggy Dollar Bar,” named after its clients who after disembarking from their boats paid for their drinks with soggy dollars.  A bit early for “pain killers,” but after getting through three quarters of a drink, it was time for lunch.

Following the beach road for a hundred yards, our next stop was Foxy’s restaurant, water side and open aired, we chatted with the owner and had a delicious lunch washed down with cold beer. Foxy has been around quite a while and is well known for his local community involvement and generosity. Besides good food and laid back open air beachside dining, excellent quality clothing can be found on the premises.

Next stop… Virgin Gorda, second largest of the BVI with approximately 3,500 residents and noted for their exclusive resorts. We spent two day at the Rosewood Little Dix Bay Resort, previously owned by Laurence Rockefeller. A timeless boutique resort where tranquility is like no other in the Caribbean. Fine beachside dining, an award-winning spa, luxury villas and beachfront rooms and suites hidden amongst tropical shrubbery and exotic scents highlight this hidden jewel.

After a night of blissful sleep… an appointment for massages at “Sense”, a Rosewood Spa, overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel.  The spa offers an array of Caribbean specialties that fuse local indigenous botanical resources with therapeutic practices and progressive concepts in health and wellness. Signature treatments include Goat Milk & Honey Wrap and the Salt Island Scrub, along with daily Yoga, Pilates and Meditation classes.  

Fifty minutes later… I’m slowly awakening from one of the most relaxing massages I’ve ever had…blue skies, lofty white clouds  and distant islands greet me as I peer out over the ocean from the hilltop situated massage room.  An hour of disengaging from this earth, truly the antidote for society!

Little Dix Bay Resort offers torch-lit private dinners on the beach, picnics, day-sails around the island on a powered catamaran or speedboat, beach drops to 8 different Virgin Gorda beaches, jeep touring or a trip to the world famous Baths.  Nature trails on Cow Hill and Savannah Bay provide the requisite exercise in preparation for their outstanding cuisine on the Pavilion Terrace, overlooking the bay.

This resort is the ultimate in understated elegance, and combined with gorgeous beaches, privacy, security (no keys), quietness, fine cuisine, aquatic sports and slow pace, make this a special retreat from societies woes.

It’s no wonder that Virgin Airlines owner, Richard Branson bought his own island in the British Virgin Islands…when in town he’s commonly seen casually dressed and intermingling with the locals, without security. That says a lot about the British Virgin Islands and that’s part of the reason why they have 80 percent repeat visitors.